The History of Lockets: Origins & Symbolism

One of the oldest forms of jewelry, lockets have been used to hold things of personal value like photos, a message, or a lock of hair for centuries. Although the modern locket is marketed to women only, historically both men and women used to wear them. From ornate pieces of the Victorian era to personalized photo lockets of contemporary times, they have a long and storied past. With its chains and clasps carrying evidence of human emotions, lockets continue to be an enduring keepsake today. 

16th – 17th Century

The history of lockets can be traced back to the beginning of the 16th century, when they were a discreet way to keep items of personal significance close. Hence, their contents were not meant for public display or consumption. For instance, a secret compartment was discovered in one of Queen Elizabeth’s rings after her death, which contained a portrait of herself and her mother. 

However, lockets did not have any sentimental value as such during that period. They were mostly worn to conceal holy relics (such as bone fragments or hair from a martyred saint), which were believed to ward off evil spirits, heal the sick, and perform miracles. They were also used to carry a small fabric square soaked in perfume, so that the fragrance masks the stench that was quite typical in the densely populated areas of that time. People also held healing herbs or, on some occasions, poison in their lockets. They were typically made of precious metals and adorned with gemstones, making them exclusive to the upper class. 

When the art of portraiture became more widely established during the Renaissance, portrait lockets became quite popular. They were usually made of gold, enameled, and set with precious jewels. These made for prestigious court or diplomatic gifts, and wearing a picture of the monarch was meant as a sign of great favor and loyalty to the crown. 

The word ‘locket’ appeared in the English language in the mid-17th century (other languages used a variation of the word ‘medallion’). It was also around this time when mourning jewelry became quite common, due to the commemorative nature of the locket. This was especially after the execution of Charles I in 1649, when his followers wore miniature portraits of him in their locket necklaces, rings, and brooches. 

18th – 19th Century  

People also enclosed locks of hair in their lockets, but these were hidden from view. However, this changed in the 18th century, when lockets were usually constructed out of panels of rock crystal, thus making them transparent. The lock of hair would be intricately curled or plaited, and meant to be openly admired. 

Lockets were at the peak of their popularity in the 19th century, partly due to Queen Victoria. Prince Albert famously gave her a bracelet with eight lockets attached to it, each containing a lock of hair from one of their eight children. After he passed away, the queen wore a large mourning locket containing a photograph of him and a lock of his hair. This inspired many to exchange lockets as tokens of love and affection. The Industrial Revolution also made it possible to mass manufacture lockets, making them more affordable and accessible for the middle class. Over time, photos began to replace hair and portraits.

20th – 21st Century

Lockets became an important sentimental object during the war years, when soldiers gave their loved ones a locket with their picture, as a reminder to wait for them. They were also given such trinkets in return, as motivation to stay strong when they march off to battle. 

Over the years, lockets became more fashion-forward, with bright colors and bold designs. They continue to embody a romantic essence in modern times, and make for great gifts on several occasions, such as birthdays, anniversaries, weddings etc. It is also common to get a name, date, or special message engraved on these jewelry pieces to make them even more unique.